Simba: My bond with Elsamere

0:00My Bond with Elsamere by Simba Qiang Zhuo, May 20, 2025, Lake Naivasha, Elsamere. Simba is a wildlife conservation explorer who has spent 15 years living alongside lions in the Maasai Mara, committed to expanding wildlife habitats and improving the livelihoods of the local Maasai people. His extraordinary journey from China to Africa has inspired Chinese communities across China, America, Europe and beyond, to embrace and support wildlife conservation in Africa. Since 2012 he has been invited on four occasions to serve as advisor and narrator for the live broadcast of The Great Migration in East Africa by the CMG. His legendary story have been featured in numerous acclaimed documentaries, including Lionheart by the History Channel.

0:55I have lost count of how many times I have returned to El Samir. It is, without doubt, my favourite place around, Lake Naivasha. Each time I come to Lake Naivasha, I make sure to visit El Samir, not for any reason other than the fact that it was the home of George and Joy Adamson. I must admire Joy's discerning eye for choosing a place to live. This estate lies on the southern shore of Lake Naivasha, serene and flanked by forests on both sides. Wildlife frequently roams here; giraffes, zebras, colubus monkeys, vervet monkeys, warthogs, buffalo, hippos, waterbugs, bushbugs, diktics, and more.

1:41Recently, there have even been unconfirmed sightings of leopards. One security guard at El Samir claimed to have seen one, though no photographs exist to prove it. I have always believed that leopards inhabit the late Naivasha area. The dense forests around the lake provide ideal cover. And their main prey, impalas and warthogs, are present in good numbers. We have donated several infrared camera traps to the Elsemere Conservation Center to study wildlife activity along the lake's edge, hoping to capture an image of a leopard.

2:23Elsa Mira stands in sharp contrast to the wild settings of Meru National Park and Kora National Park, where George and Joy once lived. Here, the life is less rugged and more defined by tranquil lake views. In the early 1960s, after losing Elsa, Joy purchased this land by Lake Naivasha and named it Elsa Mirae. I do not know exactly how long George and Joy lived here, but it is evident that Joy preferred this place. She even raised a semi-wild cheetah named Pippa and a leopard named Penny here. By contrast, George seemed more drawn to places like Meru and Korra, where he could spend entire days in the bush with lions. My own style is closer to George's, although I love Elsemere, I could not live here for long. I am more accustomed to places like the Maasai Mara, where each day brings encounters with lions and a wide variety of wildlife.

3:26George Adamson only moved from Meru to Korra in 1969, establishing Kampi Yasimba, lion camp. Joy would occasionally visit him there, but spent most of her time at El Samir. Two years later, in 1971, when Tony Fitzjohn was looking for work in Kenya, it was at El over 100 kilometers from Nairobi that he met Joy. It was Joy who told him that George needed an assistant at Korah. From Nairobi, it takes about two hours by car to reach Lake Naivasha. Along the way, one passes the Great Rift Valley viewpoint, then descends to Mai Mahiu, a small town with a T-junction. A left turn leads toward the Maasai Mara, but continuing straight for about 30 kilometers brings you to a second T-junction. Turning left there and driving another 20 kilometers will bring you to Elsamere on the right hand side of the road. Elsamere is divided into two main sections, Elsamere Lodge and the Elsamere Conservation Center. The main gate is the only entrance. Driving straight leads to the lodge. The parking lot is large and the reception hall stands nearby. To the left of the entrance sits George Adamson's old Land Rover Defender, a site that always fills me with deep respect for him. Walking straight from the lobby for about 50 meters leads to the restaurant where Joy's paintings decorate the walls and artifacts once used by George and Joy are displayed around the fireplace. To the right is the El Samir Library. Beyond the restaurant lies a lawn-facing Lake Naivasha, dotted with tall yellow-barked Acacia trees, often hosting black-faced vervet monkeys climbing among the branches. The scene has an Eden-like quality. Sitting here for tea, conversation, or writing is pure pleasure. The viewing platform and boat jetty lie to the left.

5:32I often watch brilliant sunsets from the platform while observing hippo behavior. In the mornings and evenings, giraffes, zebras, and hippos can sometimes be seen on the lawn, but one must be particularly cautious around hippos. These large herbivores spend their days in water, but graze on shore at night, territorial and extremely powerful with immense strength, speed, and bite force. Hippos must be given at least a 100 meter safety buffer. Elsemere takes visitor safety seriously.

6:12At night, security guards with flashlights escort guests from the restaurant back to their rooms. Their experience, along with their heightened senses, allows them to detect hippos and buffalo well before others can. My friend, Anthony Karinj, has been in charge of the Elsemir Conservation Centre's work for over 30 years, dedicating himself to the research and protection of the Lake Naivasha ecosystem with focus and passion. We met in 2023 and began collaborating on wildlife research and conservation projects, quickly becoming good friends.

6:53It was Anthony who introduced me to top raptor experts, Munir Varani and Simon Tomsett. Together we took boat trips to find African fish eagles, sparking my deeper interest in raptor research and conservation. When I visit El Samir, I usually stay in the cottages at the Conservation Centre, reserved for experts and teachers. nearby are a student dormitory, a dining hall, and a laboratory. I am particularly fond of the dining hall. My Chinese friends and I often join the kitchen team to teach them Chinese cuisine. The chefs, curious and quick to learn, fill the kitchen with laughter during these sessions.

7:38The conservation center's office is also nearby, with two resident leopard tortoises and a giant bird nest in the trees above. Behind the lab is a tree nursery, where many of my friends have planted trees to help restore Lake Naivash's forests. I enjoy going out at 6am to the main lawn. At that hour, hippos may still be on shore, so a flashlight is essential. I carefully scan the surroundings to ensure no aggressive hippos or buffalo are nearby before proceeding. I then settle at a table by the lake, sip African ginger tea to soothe my throat, listen to the calls of African fish eagles and other birds, and watch the sun rise over the eastern horizon, pure bliss.

8:27Having visited over 60 countries, I can say that Elsemere is among the most ideal places for sitting quietly to write about Africa. It offers natural beauty, deep history, and a sense of harmony between humans, nature, wildlife. Sometimes a few giraffes and zebras will appear silently on the lawn to graze in the morning light. They are often unbothered by human presence, even allowing close observation. Yet one must always keep a respectful distance, never be deceived by their gentle demeanor. They are still wild animals, capable of powerful self-defense, especially with their hind-kicks which can injure even a lion. Observers must maintain a respectful, non-intrusive approach to nature to truly experience the delicate balance between humans and wildlife. Elsemere is also an excellent place to observe black and white colobus monkeys, which are absent from the Maasai Mara. These arboreal, Diurnal primates spend most of their time in the mid to upper canopy, being most active in the morning and again in the afternoon, while resting quietly at midday.

9:46Primarily for liverace, they feed on leaves, but also consume fruit, flowers, seeds, bark, and occasionally insects. Living in groups of around 10 to 15 individuals, typically one male, multiple females, and their offspring. They are gentle, reserved, and largely silent, vocalizing only in specific contexts such as alarm, communication, or maternal care. Compared to other primates, Kolobu's monkeys display low aggression toward humans, preferring avoidance and quiet observation. Nonetheless, we must avoid over approaching or feeding them. Human feeding disrupts their foraging patterns, fosters dependence, and erodes their natural wariness, potentially leading them to enter human areas, causing conflict, traffic accidents, or the spread of zoonotic diseases. Regardless of their apparent docility, respecting boundaries, and adhering to a "respect without interference" principle is essential for peaceful coexistence.

10:59Elsemere also lies within the territory of a troop of around 60 olive baboons. They often appear near the conservation centre's dining hall, and if staff leave doors open, baboons may slip in and cause damage. Male baboons weigh between 30 to 40 kilograms, with the largest reaching up to 60 kilograms, comparable to the average adult man. Their canine teeth average four to five centimeters, with the largest exceeding six centimeters, nearly equal to those of an adult male lion. Never approach baboons, especially the largest males, as they may attack.

11:41If one approaches you closely, do not turn and run. Stand your ground without making direct eye contact. Another common primate here is the verbate monkey, which coexist peacefully with colobus monkeys but frequently clashes with baboons. Although baboons are individually stronger, they lack the speed and agility to dominate verbate monkeys completely. By contrast, baboons rarely engage directly with colobus monkeys, likely due to differences in habitat use and lack of direct competition. Baboons are omnivorous and mostly terrestrial, while colobus monkeys are strictly arboreal.

12:26I have always enjoyed studying the relationships between different species, sharing the same habitat. Elsemere is also one of the best places to observe African fish eagles. Each morning and evening, their resonant calls echo across the lakeshore. These eagles typically live in pairs. And one pair's calls often trigger responses from others, creating an ecological chorus. In breeding season, males patrol and defend larger areas, while females remain closer to the nest, usually within 200 to 500 meters, caring for chicks. shows that their territories span one to two square kilometers, with size depending on fish abundance, smaller where fish are plentiful, larger where they are scarce.

13:18Yet, these iconic raptors face mounting threats, habitat degradation, deforestation of lakeshore woodlands, water pollution, overfishing, and invasive species. The rapid expansion of flower farming and urban development around Lake Naivasha intensifies pressure on the wetland ecosystem, reducing nesting sites, hunting grounds and tall roost trees. As top predators, African fish eagles serve as indicators of Lake Naivasha's ecological health, protecting their habitat safeguards the entire wetland ecosystem.

14:00If degradation continues, these apex predators will be among the first to vanish, with human well-being ultimately at stake, only through coordinated efforts among governments, communities and stakeholders. And through systematic science-based conservation, can this invaluable ecosystem's integrity and sustainability be preserved? Elsemere is far more than a tranquil retreat on the shores of Lake Naivasha. This is a living classroom, a sanctuary of biodiversity, and a testament to the enduring legacies of George and Joy Adamson. My own connection to this place is rooted not only in its beauty and history, but also in the ongoing work to safeguard its wildlife and ecosystems.

14:49From the silent grace of colobus monkeys, to the commanding presence of African fish eagles, Every species here tells part of a larger story, one in which human choices will determine the ending. If we act with foresight, respect and unity, the chorus of birdsong and the rustle of wild creatures in the acacia trees will remain part of Elsemere's identity for generations to come. If we do not, we risk losing both the wildlife and the human heritage that make this place irreplaceable.